The following letter goes home with information completed on each puppy.
Jasper Blues Siberians
Dear Puppy Buyer,
The first 1-2 weeks can be difficult as your puppy adjusts to leaving mom and siblings. They are used to having lots of attention and constant stimulation. Your puppy may seem shy or sad the first couple days, or may be naughty. Please be patient with them and know that the time you invest in them know will make all the difference as you build a life together.
Microchip Registration Information:
Your puppy’s microchip is registered in my name & your name so we will both be contacted in the event he/she is found & scanned.
It is very important to update the database with any changes to your contact information or address.
If your puppy goes missing, it is very important that you update the Microchip website as they send out alerts. Update yearly with new photos so if your husky goes missing you do not need to do this when you want to be looking for your husky.
Microchip #
Vaccine Information:
This is the recommended schedule I follow, and I perform titers at one year to determine if boosters are needed for everything but Rabies. Rabies should be given on its own without any other vaccine as a puppy, at one year and then every three years to meet state law requirements.
I do not give Kennel Cough (Bordetella), Lymes Vaccine, Or Lepto Vaccine. Please ask your vet if their combo vaccine includes Lepto. I never recommend giving a combination vaccine with Lepto included due to risks. Please check on this when you do your first visit so you can decide for either a vaccine without Lepto or seek care elsewhere.
If you decide to give these non-core vaccines to your puppy-make sure you never give more than one vaccine per visit and wait three to four weeks’ in-between vaccines.
First Distemper/Parvo Vaccine given:
Second Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Third Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Rabies Vaccine Due (I would not give at same time as distemper/parvo and wait at least three- four weeks & ideally give around 5 months of age or older. Give after:
Not following these guidelines increases your huskies’ risk of an adverse reaction.
Puppy Class:
Make sure you signed up for a puppy class where there is open time for socialization for puppies. Do this early on and as soon as possible. This is extremely important for huskies. They need to learn that puppies of all sizes are good to play with. Many of us can teach them basic obedience at home. However, in puppy class, they learn to respect many different types of people, smells, dogs of various sizes, smells, etc. These early interactions make a huge difference in how your puppy develops. The first 20 weeks are crucial in their overall development. Make every experience count.
Crate Training:
This is very hard because they will cry. But it is one of the most important things you can do. Puppies need to be crated at sleep times, any time they cannot be supervised for their own safety, and when overtired. Do not use the crate for punishment and never scold or punish your husky while in the crate. If done right, the crate will become a safe haven for your puppy. I highly recommend crate training so if your puppy ever becomes ill and you must limit activity, they do not have to learn this while sick or injured. Typically, the first several nights are the hardest, but if you keep the puppy’s crate in your bedroom at a level where they can see you they tend to do much better. We place it between our pillows the first few nights and then move it to the floor.
Things that may help: fan blowing into the crate, playing country music. We played this in the nursery. Make sure if you put anything in the crate, that it is chew proof so you don’t end up with a bowel obstruction.
Feeding in the crate can help make it a more desirable place as well.
Have them sleep in the crate.
When placing your puppy in the crate or removing them- try to be business like. Do not act excited to see them or sad to leave them.
Try to remove them when they are quiet, unless they are waking up at night and are alerting you they need to use the bathroom.
When day crating, start with very short sessions. Ideally 5-10 minutes. Build up as tolerated. Do not crate your husky for extended periods.
Potty Training:
Puppies need to go potty very often, they have small bladders. After eating, after drinking, after waking up from sleeping, after playing hard, after a change in scenery, etc. Pretty much every 30-45 minutes.
We like bell training. I place bells on my door and ring them every time we go outside and say “outside” Soon the puppy will ring the bells to alert you when they need to go outside. This is very helpful, so you do not have to watch body language all the time too.
Take them to the same place outdoors each time, they will learn that is where they should go potty.
Limit their space. If they have large areas, they will find a potty area inside. Baby gates sectioning off the home helps.
Make sure to really clean any accidents well or they tend to reoffend. We do not punish them for accidents in the house or even acknowledge them. Huskies seek attention and sometimes even negative attention. It is best to ignore it.
If you are unable to keep a close eye on them, crate them for short periods of time.
Dedicate a good two weeks’ full time to training them in the beginning and you will save yourself months of potty training. A good thing to keep in mind is that potty training a husky is more about training yourself, than training the puppy. You need to be smarter than they are and ready for them. Be one step ahead of them.
Look up umbilical training. This is keeping them close to you on a leash until trained and can be very effective as well.
Biting:
Puppies will bite as they are teething, and they need to learn right away that they cannot bite. Any behavior that you do not want them doing as an adult, you want to correct right away as a puppy. Provide plenty of safe chew toys, frozen treats while teething. Ignoring biting tends to work best. If they are biting, replace your hand with a toy, or something they can chew or walk away if they start biting. If they lick or kiss your hand, praise them. Let them know what they should be doing. Make sure to observe young children around your puppy. Puppies see them as equals or littermates and need supervision to know that rough housing is not ok. Make sure your children are always respectful of puppies, so puppies do not become aggressive or fearful around them.
Prevent Resource Guarding:
Prevent this by trading out high value toys with high value treats. Feed from your hand. Train your pupoy to wait for their food and that it is ok for you to remove their food.
Treats:
We try to use natural treats like carrots, cheese sticks, or cut up a natural dog food roll into bite size treats. We freeze canned pure pumpkin in ice cube trays with blueberries and kale, they love this for teething, and it soothes their tummy. Most manufactured treats are full of preservatives and can cause tearing and health issues if given too often. Make sure if you buy treats that they are not on a recall list and that none of the ingredients come from China. Rawhide is very dangerous, so please do not give this as a treat or toy.
Feeding your Puppy:
The biggest cause of loose stools is over feeding. Do not go by the amounts suggested on the Farmina food plan recommendations or food bag recommendations for feeding your puppy. Your puppy should have three scheduled feedings each day until six months of age and then go down to two times a day. They currently are eating ½ cup at each meal. You will want to slowly work up to one cup each meal over the next few weeks. If you do this too quickly, they will get diarrhea. What they don’t eat in 10 minutes I save for the next meal. Give the NuVet with a meal or as a treat daily. Dogs that eat at scheduled feedings live on average 2 years longer than those who are free fed. We intentionally feed an all life stage food instead of puppy food. Puppy foods can cause huskies to grow too big too fast which results in growth plate problems, potentially hip dysplasia or arthritis. If you feed a poor-quality food, this can also occur. The Farmina All life stage Chicken & Pomegranate is a meat-based protein food specifically designed to meet your puppies needs for their entire life. If you have concerns after reading something or speaking to someone, please call me. Grain foods bind with zinc and can contribute to zinc deficiency in our breed. I do not recommend feeding grains. I have researched nutritional needs for huskies, and I promise you this meets all their needs and can back it with evidence.
Add in fresh fruits and vegetables. We give carrots, blueberries, canned pumpkin, kale, lettuce, small amount of tomatoes. We also give raw meaty bones (not cooked) raw meats (not pork or fish). Replacing at least 10 % of their meals with raw based feeding helps their health tremendously. You can wait until they are 16-20 weeks to do this. We also give sardines weekly. Just make sure they are in a BPA free package. This helps prevent deficiencies such as zinc.
If changing dog food, please review information on my website for gradual transition plan to avoid issues with potty training, GI upset, and diarrhea. It is very difficult on Siberian huskies to have changes in diet, and all changes need to be done gradually to avoid health risks and they should not be done for at least one month after they join your family.
Benebac can be purchased off amazon for upset stomachs, any time antibiotics are given or for loose stools. This probiotic works wonders. I recommend having this on hand. Also small amounts of canned pure pumpkin helps upset stomachs. Give one to two spoonful’s.
Grooming
It is very important that you continue to brush/comb your puppy at least weekly. Pick one day a week so that you have a routine and your puppy learns to enjoy combing/brushing. We use an Undercoat rake and a steel grooming comb. (Do not use tools with blades like a furminator) You want to make sure to focus on the areas behind the ears, back legs, tail and belly. These areas can matt and you want to prevent this from occurring. Make sure you part the hair and work up from the skin. If you just focus on the topcoat, the matts will form at the skin. Especially if you have a longer coat puppy. I would highly suggest finding a groomer in your area that is recommended for huskies and going every 3-6 months. Every 3 months if your husky is longer haired. Be cautious as some groomers are not good with dogs, so always find someone you can trust.
Baths
They only need a bath 1-2 times a year, when blowing coat. But as a puppy do them monthly so they learn that baths are OK and not to be afraid of them. Make sure to use a good shampoo such as Isle of Dogs #20 so their coat does not dry out. We purchase this shampoo online from iodogs.com
Furniture
We do not recommend putting puppies up on furniture/beds until they can get up their themselves. Even then use caution. If puppies fall, it is very likely they will break a bone which can cause a lifetime of joint issues and arthritis. When they can get up on their own, they are safer to get off on their own.
Exercise
In the beginning, it is best to not take your puppy on long hikes or walks. This can lead to joint issues later on in life. You will hear people tell you a tired puppy is a happy puppy. I disagree. Just like an overtired toddler, they can be just as naughty. Puppies do best deciding how much they can play when playing in the yard with you and allowed to run and then rest. If you take them on a walk, they will likely keep going to please you but they are still growing and this can be hard on their joints. I would not go farther than a block the first week and then gradually add one block each week as tolerated. I do not have my huskies pull anything until at least one year of age to prevent injuries. Some trainers will have them pull younger, but then when a dog is injured, they retire them for life. I want you to enjoy your puppy for the rest of its life. It is best to let them grow strong before having them work.
Lastly, I am always here to help with any questions or concerns. Please call or text me at 320-237-6162 early on before concerns are out of control. Thank you for providing a loving home to this beautiful baby.
Sincerely,
Amy Junes
Jasper Blues Siberians
Copyright 2017. All rights reserved.
Jasper Blues Siberians
Dear Puppy Buyer,
The first 1-2 weeks can be difficult as your puppy adjusts to leaving mom and siblings. They are used to having lots of attention and constant stimulation. Your puppy may seem shy or sad the first couple days, or may be naughty. Please be patient with them and know that the time you invest in them know will make all the difference as you build a life together.
Microchip Registration Information:
Your puppy’s microchip is registered in my name & your name so we will both be contacted in the event he/she is found & scanned.
It is very important to update the database with any changes to your contact information or address.
If your puppy goes missing, it is very important that you update the Microchip website as they send out alerts. Update yearly with new photos so if your husky goes missing you do not need to do this when you want to be looking for your husky.
Microchip #
Vaccine Information:
This is the recommended schedule I follow, and I perform titers at one year to determine if boosters are needed for everything but Rabies. Rabies should be given on its own without any other vaccine as a puppy, at one year and then every three years to meet state law requirements.
I do not give Kennel Cough (Bordetella), Lymes Vaccine, Or Lepto Vaccine. Please ask your vet if their combo vaccine includes Lepto. I never recommend giving a combination vaccine with Lepto included due to risks. Please check on this when you do your first visit so you can decide for either a vaccine without Lepto or seek care elsewhere.
If you decide to give these non-core vaccines to your puppy-make sure you never give more than one vaccine per visit and wait three to four weeks’ in-between vaccines.
First Distemper/Parvo Vaccine given:
Second Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Third Distemper/Parvo Vaccine Due:
Rabies Vaccine Due (I would not give at same time as distemper/parvo and wait at least three- four weeks & ideally give around 5 months of age or older. Give after:
Not following these guidelines increases your huskies’ risk of an adverse reaction.
Puppy Class:
Make sure you signed up for a puppy class where there is open time for socialization for puppies. Do this early on and as soon as possible. This is extremely important for huskies. They need to learn that puppies of all sizes are good to play with. Many of us can teach them basic obedience at home. However, in puppy class, they learn to respect many different types of people, smells, dogs of various sizes, smells, etc. These early interactions make a huge difference in how your puppy develops. The first 20 weeks are crucial in their overall development. Make every experience count.
Crate Training:
This is very hard because they will cry. But it is one of the most important things you can do. Puppies need to be crated at sleep times, any time they cannot be supervised for their own safety, and when overtired. Do not use the crate for punishment and never scold or punish your husky while in the crate. If done right, the crate will become a safe haven for your puppy. I highly recommend crate training so if your puppy ever becomes ill and you must limit activity, they do not have to learn this while sick or injured. Typically, the first several nights are the hardest, but if you keep the puppy’s crate in your bedroom at a level where they can see you they tend to do much better. We place it between our pillows the first few nights and then move it to the floor.
Things that may help: fan blowing into the crate, playing country music. We played this in the nursery. Make sure if you put anything in the crate, that it is chew proof so you don’t end up with a bowel obstruction.
Feeding in the crate can help make it a more desirable place as well.
Have them sleep in the crate.
When placing your puppy in the crate or removing them- try to be business like. Do not act excited to see them or sad to leave them.
Try to remove them when they are quiet, unless they are waking up at night and are alerting you they need to use the bathroom.
When day crating, start with very short sessions. Ideally 5-10 minutes. Build up as tolerated. Do not crate your husky for extended periods.
Potty Training:
Puppies need to go potty very often, they have small bladders. After eating, after drinking, after waking up from sleeping, after playing hard, after a change in scenery, etc. Pretty much every 30-45 minutes.
We like bell training. I place bells on my door and ring them every time we go outside and say “outside” Soon the puppy will ring the bells to alert you when they need to go outside. This is very helpful, so you do not have to watch body language all the time too.
Take them to the same place outdoors each time, they will learn that is where they should go potty.
Limit their space. If they have large areas, they will find a potty area inside. Baby gates sectioning off the home helps.
Make sure to really clean any accidents well or they tend to reoffend. We do not punish them for accidents in the house or even acknowledge them. Huskies seek attention and sometimes even negative attention. It is best to ignore it.
If you are unable to keep a close eye on them, crate them for short periods of time.
Dedicate a good two weeks’ full time to training them in the beginning and you will save yourself months of potty training. A good thing to keep in mind is that potty training a husky is more about training yourself, than training the puppy. You need to be smarter than they are and ready for them. Be one step ahead of them.
Look up umbilical training. This is keeping them close to you on a leash until trained and can be very effective as well.
Biting:
Puppies will bite as they are teething, and they need to learn right away that they cannot bite. Any behavior that you do not want them doing as an adult, you want to correct right away as a puppy. Provide plenty of safe chew toys, frozen treats while teething. Ignoring biting tends to work best. If they are biting, replace your hand with a toy, or something they can chew or walk away if they start biting. If they lick or kiss your hand, praise them. Let them know what they should be doing. Make sure to observe young children around your puppy. Puppies see them as equals or littermates and need supervision to know that rough housing is not ok. Make sure your children are always respectful of puppies, so puppies do not become aggressive or fearful around them.
Prevent Resource Guarding:
Prevent this by trading out high value toys with high value treats. Feed from your hand. Train your pupoy to wait for their food and that it is ok for you to remove their food.
Treats:
We try to use natural treats like carrots, cheese sticks, or cut up a natural dog food roll into bite size treats. We freeze canned pure pumpkin in ice cube trays with blueberries and kale, they love this for teething, and it soothes their tummy. Most manufactured treats are full of preservatives and can cause tearing and health issues if given too often. Make sure if you buy treats that they are not on a recall list and that none of the ingredients come from China. Rawhide is very dangerous, so please do not give this as a treat or toy.
Feeding your Puppy:
The biggest cause of loose stools is over feeding. Do not go by the amounts suggested on the Farmina food plan recommendations or food bag recommendations for feeding your puppy. Your puppy should have three scheduled feedings each day until six months of age and then go down to two times a day. They currently are eating ½ cup at each meal. You will want to slowly work up to one cup each meal over the next few weeks. If you do this too quickly, they will get diarrhea. What they don’t eat in 10 minutes I save for the next meal. Give the NuVet with a meal or as a treat daily. Dogs that eat at scheduled feedings live on average 2 years longer than those who are free fed. We intentionally feed an all life stage food instead of puppy food. Puppy foods can cause huskies to grow too big too fast which results in growth plate problems, potentially hip dysplasia or arthritis. If you feed a poor-quality food, this can also occur. The Farmina All life stage Chicken & Pomegranate is a meat-based protein food specifically designed to meet your puppies needs for their entire life. If you have concerns after reading something or speaking to someone, please call me. Grain foods bind with zinc and can contribute to zinc deficiency in our breed. I do not recommend feeding grains. I have researched nutritional needs for huskies, and I promise you this meets all their needs and can back it with evidence.
Add in fresh fruits and vegetables. We give carrots, blueberries, canned pumpkin, kale, lettuce, small amount of tomatoes. We also give raw meaty bones (not cooked) raw meats (not pork or fish). Replacing at least 10 % of their meals with raw based feeding helps their health tremendously. You can wait until they are 16-20 weeks to do this. We also give sardines weekly. Just make sure they are in a BPA free package. This helps prevent deficiencies such as zinc.
If changing dog food, please review information on my website for gradual transition plan to avoid issues with potty training, GI upset, and diarrhea. It is very difficult on Siberian huskies to have changes in diet, and all changes need to be done gradually to avoid health risks and they should not be done for at least one month after they join your family.
Benebac can be purchased off amazon for upset stomachs, any time antibiotics are given or for loose stools. This probiotic works wonders. I recommend having this on hand. Also small amounts of canned pure pumpkin helps upset stomachs. Give one to two spoonful’s.
Grooming
It is very important that you continue to brush/comb your puppy at least weekly. Pick one day a week so that you have a routine and your puppy learns to enjoy combing/brushing. We use an Undercoat rake and a steel grooming comb. (Do not use tools with blades like a furminator) You want to make sure to focus on the areas behind the ears, back legs, tail and belly. These areas can matt and you want to prevent this from occurring. Make sure you part the hair and work up from the skin. If you just focus on the topcoat, the matts will form at the skin. Especially if you have a longer coat puppy. I would highly suggest finding a groomer in your area that is recommended for huskies and going every 3-6 months. Every 3 months if your husky is longer haired. Be cautious as some groomers are not good with dogs, so always find someone you can trust.
Baths
They only need a bath 1-2 times a year, when blowing coat. But as a puppy do them monthly so they learn that baths are OK and not to be afraid of them. Make sure to use a good shampoo such as Isle of Dogs #20 so their coat does not dry out. We purchase this shampoo online from iodogs.com
Furniture
We do not recommend putting puppies up on furniture/beds until they can get up their themselves. Even then use caution. If puppies fall, it is very likely they will break a bone which can cause a lifetime of joint issues and arthritis. When they can get up on their own, they are safer to get off on their own.
Exercise
In the beginning, it is best to not take your puppy on long hikes or walks. This can lead to joint issues later on in life. You will hear people tell you a tired puppy is a happy puppy. I disagree. Just like an overtired toddler, they can be just as naughty. Puppies do best deciding how much they can play when playing in the yard with you and allowed to run and then rest. If you take them on a walk, they will likely keep going to please you but they are still growing and this can be hard on their joints. I would not go farther than a block the first week and then gradually add one block each week as tolerated. I do not have my huskies pull anything until at least one year of age to prevent injuries. Some trainers will have them pull younger, but then when a dog is injured, they retire them for life. I want you to enjoy your puppy for the rest of its life. It is best to let them grow strong before having them work.
Lastly, I am always here to help with any questions or concerns. Please call or text me at 320-237-6162 early on before concerns are out of control. Thank you for providing a loving home to this beautiful baby.
Sincerely,
Amy Junes
Jasper Blues Siberians
Copyright 2017. All rights reserved.
This is the safe crate we recommend for crate training . We purchase a Kuranda bed to place in the bottom of it (keep the legs off).
We also recommend have benebac probiotic pet felon hand to help with loose stools or upset stomachs should that happen with the transition to their new home.